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An Expert Colorist

Hair Color Expert operating from California who focuses on grey hair. He works with Jane Fonda and renowned personalities.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

I highly recommend a soft fabric towel, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Most people don’t realise how much stress a standard towel can do, notably with lightened or dyed strands. This one small change can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a large-gap comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while detangling and helps keep the health of the individual hairs, especially after lightening.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A top-tier thermal appliance – featuring innovative technology, with precise heat settings. Lightened strands can become discolored or suffer heat stress without the right iron.

What style or process should you always avoid?

Self-applied color lifting. Online tutorials can be misleading, but the actual fact is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals melt their hair, break it off or end up with bands of colour that are extremely difficult to fix. I would also avoid chemical straightening processes on color-treated or grey hair. Such treatments are often overly harsh for already fragile strands and can cause long-term damage or discoloration.

Which typical blunder stands out?

People using the wrong products for their hair type or colour. Some overuse violet-based cleansers until their blonde or grey strands looks flat and dull. Others rely too much on high-protein masks and end up with rigid, fragile strands. A further common mistake is heat styling without protection. If you’re using styling appliances without a defensive spray or cream, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I often suggest follicle treatments containing stimulants to enhance nutrient delivery and support follicle health. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps clear out buildup and allows treatments to work more effectively. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown great results. They support the body from the inside out by correcting endocrine issues, anxiety and lack of vital nutrients.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, PRP therapy – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to identify the source rather than seeking quick fixes.

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A Trichology Expert

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley services and items for shedding.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will remove split ends personally fortnightly to keep my ends healthy, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are absolutely amazing if you have areas of scalp visibility. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a variety of shades, making it seamlessly blended. I used it myself in the postpartum period when I had a lot of hair fall – and also currently as I’m going through some significant shedding after having a severe illness recently. Because locks are secondary, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. When dealing with temporary hair loss, known as TE, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the best results. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It shows no real benefit. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the main goal of cleansing is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the reverse is correct – particularly with flaky scalp, which is aggravated by oil buildup. If oils are left on your scalp, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a careful compromise. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it is unlikely to cause damage.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. Scientific support is substantial and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

With telogen effluvium, investigation is key. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will improve spontaneously. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus